After a train ride from Pisa (where we took pictures of everyone pretending to be holding it up, and where we were, like many people, unimpressed with Pisa Proper), we were not sure if we were headed to La Spezia, last stop before going to cinque terre.
So we stayed in a nice hotel rom in La Spezia, watched music videos and generally fell asleep, as we were more tired than either or us wanted to admit.
We wake up, and after the supremely unhelpful train attendants helped us not at all, we had a sandwich and went to one of the 5 cities. We sat around, watch the children play, and decided to go to Volterra (I think) to find a room.
We waded through the cats (so many cats in a fishing village) to find a "camera" and I rang a bell. Suddenly all the windows nearby open and these kind, dried-apple old ladies start waving in every which direction. At last Martina, a younger local, shows us up to her rooms, which are lovely, and smell of saltwater and beachiness. Its great!
I don't remember if we ate in that night or what, but the night we we did go out, we wentdown to where the fishermen in safety orange were having a coffee (so much coffee to be had) and met a swell couple from Georgia, with whom we shared a few words and they helped us figure out where to eat later on that evening. They were awesomely Georgian, and in their southernly way told us about some american who was living with an italian who makes stone fortress/condos/hotel rooms up on the hill and how respected he is buy the community and how his american girlfriend has a baby that her parents havn't even seen. (Secret hidden implication -- they're NOT MARRIED!!! How does that even happen to people?)
Anyway, they were precious as precious can be, and a most excellent travelin' Southern couple.
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